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France in March?
Why would anyone want to visit France in March? Winter’s chill hasn’t completely disappeared. The weather is mercurial– sunny one moment, rainy the next. And some sites have limited hours of operation with corresponding limited public transportation to visit them. So Why?
Because off season France in the Loire Valley is AWESOME! Because there are no lines at the castles, and the weather is blissfully comfortable– not too hot and certainly not too cold. France in March can be a perfect time to visit with a little thought and preparation. Since there are so many castles in the Loire, it can be overwhelming to decide which to visit. Below, I share what I learned about traveling to the Loire Valley in the off-season, and how I chose which of the many Loire Valley chateaux to explore.
The Loire Valley Castles (Chateaux)
I arrived in France during the middle of a train strike affecting the entire country, and a garbage strike affecting Paris. But I didn’t let that stop me. Though it required some creativity with timing, any train cancellations were easily worked through, and I got to my destinations with relative ease and mostly minor delays.
The Loire Valley is often referred to as the garden of France because of its vineyards and orchards. It may be even better known for its many (300!) castles And while the entire Loire River is more than 600 miles long, the part of the river that wends through Loire Valley is a mere 150 miles, and you can read more about it on its Wikipedia page.
Prior to my arrival, there were several Loire Valley castles that were “must see” on my list, as well as some other items of interest for which the area is known. I have already had the good fortune to visit the chateaux at both Amboise and Chenonceau nearly ten years earlier (they don’t change much over time!), but if you haven’t, then consider adding these two to your list. They should definitely be on there as examples of classic chateau architecture chock full of history.
My “must see” list included the following chateaux in no specific order:
- Chambord – the largest chateau in the Loire, so why not visit it?
- Chateau d’Usse – known as the “Sleeping Beauty” castle as it served as Charles Perrault’s inspiration for the castle in the popular fairy tale.
- Azay-le-Rideau – because it appears to float on the water (a great architectural study).
- Cheverny – another grand chateau with large gardens and still used by the same family for over 600 years.
- Villandry – some of the largest gardens found among the Loire Valley chateaux.
- Chaumont sur Loire – easy to get to, and a very short train ride away from Amboise. It sits on a hill watching over the river and town below.
- Fontvreaud Abbey – not a chateau, but the burial place of Eleanor of Aquitaine and some other pretty important people.
I also had two “non-chateau” experiences on my list as well: to visit one of the troglodyte homes found throughout the Loire Valley, and to rent a bicycle and experience cycling on the well known French cycling paths. (More on that in a separate post.)
Preparing for an Off Season Visit to the Loire Valley Getting Around
There are some things to consider when planning a visit to the Loire in low season. The public transportation connections are not as frequent or as plentiful. They still exist, and they’re more substantial than any systems we have in the US, but they run a little less often in the early spring. Certain routes only run a few times a day- like the bus from Blois-Chambord- meaning you must time your trip with some care. Overlay an already reduced off-season schedule with a train workers’ strike where one in three trains were canceled, and you can see why planning took me a little longer than usual.
Fortunately, trip planning and puzzle solving are my jam.
I purchased a flexible France rail pass for my longer journeys: Paris to Amboise, Amboise to Paris, Paris to Nice, etc. and I saved money for these longer routes using the pass rather than point to point tickets. But for shorter routes between Loire stations, train fares are quite reasonable, so no need to waste a flex pass on these shorter jaunts.
The GR3 (Grande Randonee’) also runs through the Loire Valley, one of France’s well used and maintained walking trails. I did see a sign sign or two marking the trail, but it was not marked as visibly or frequently as the trails I walked in England. It’s funny because I could find a lot of easy-to-follow literature about the other GR paths in France, but not very much about the GR3 as it goes through the Loire Valley. I wonder if part of the reason for this is the number of companies that sell walking and cycling tours of the Loire?
For maximum flexibility, consider renting a car upon arrival in the Loire. I would NOT recommend driving in and around Paris, but outside of the city, the driving seems easy enough.
Expect Rain: I love rain. Whether steady downpour or light drizzle, I’m not bothered a bit by precipitation. If you go to France off season, then just prepare accordingly- and that means bringing layers.
For the rain, I used an inexpensive rain poncho. It covered my head and backpack, and kept my legs mostly dry. I also packed some short sleeve shirts (for southern France and Spain), long sleeve shirts, a hoodie, and a couple pairs of pants. No shorts. Each day, I always carried an extra pair of socks in my day pack and used a windbreaker. The light jacket was fine for the rain and wind, and I never needed to use the long underwear I also packed. Leave it home if you’re not visiting the French Alps.
Expect Reduced Hours of Operation: This is really not a deal breaker, but it is something to take into consideration when planning your trip. Some chateaux do not open until later in the spring. The Chateau d’Usse, which was on my must-see list, was closed when I visited. A simple check before I left would have pointed this out, but I just assumed that chateaux are open year round. You know what happens when you “assume” things…
I forgot a lesson I’d learned on my Thames Path hike... always do an idiot check.
But with 300 chateaux in the Loire Valley, there were plenty of options if one plan didn’t work out.
Reduced TI Hours: Along with reduced hours of operations for various sites, Tourist Information Centers may also limit their hours of operation as well. Just be aware if you are someone who frequents these for maps, guidance, etc.
Expect Room to Roam: A great reward of traveling in the off-season is not fighting throngs of tourists. Crowds combined with brutal summer heat, can make travel feel like an endurance test rather than something to be enjoyed and savored. I prefer roomier trains, the ease of getting a hotel reservation at the last moment, and wandering around a place not fighting the crowds. If I see something I like, I can stop and study it for awhile.
Where to Stay in the Loire Valley
I could have picked anywhere near Amboise and Blois to use as a home base, but I have always enjoyed Amboise and thought it was a perfect spot to “set up my village.” I ate at the same cafe’ every morning and stopped at the greengrocer afterwards to pick up some fruit for the day. If you decide to set up camp in Amboise, be mindful that the old city is across the bridge from the train station, so there is about a mile walk involved. I stayed at the Logis Hotel Chaptal, right in the center of town, but there are a TON of hotels in Amboise. Seriously, a ton.
In hindsight, I’d pick Blois for its size and convenient train station, but I don’t mind walking a bit. More on this later…
I also reserved two nights in Azay le Rideau at Logis Hotel Restaurant des Chateaux to see the chateau of the same name and possibly get to Chateau d’Usse. The hosts, Phillippe and Nathalia, plus their lovely parrot, were so kind and helpful. They arranged taxi service for me to travel to Villandry and gave lots of good suggestions for the area.
And I booked one night in Chinon where I thought I could more easily tour Fontvreaud Abbey, around a dozen miles away.
How to Choose Which Castles to Visit?
The thing about viewing chateaux, whether it’s just one or many, is not falling into Russian novel syndrome. I mean absolutely no disrespect to these authors… and I could easily have said Gothic Cathedral Syndrome, or even French Village Fatigue.
Whenever you do a lot of something, whether reading, eating, or sightseeing– the experiences can run together if you’re not careful. It’s easy to fall into this trap. One minute you are excited with experiencing something new and you want more and more of the experience. But at some point, the experience becomes tedious. You’ve been there and done that and everything starts to look and feel alike. This is a warning sign when traveling.
The trick is to find what makes each castle feel different and unique. And that is exactly what I did in the Loire Valley.
Chambord
Chambord is the largest of the Loire Valley chateaux, and I thought I should make the effort to visit just for it being the largest. But the location of Chambord, a few miles away from Blois, means some transportation links need to be planned in advance– particularly in the off-season. When workers are not on strike, trains run frequently between Blois and Amboise. Beginning late March, there is a direct shuttle linking Blois to Chambord several times a day.
But in the off season, not so much. The train strike meant that every third train or so was cancelled, delaying my arrival in Blois. And as I mentioned above, the Blois-Chambord shuttle was not yet running.
With some study, I did work out the transfers and made my way to Blois, where I rented a bicycle to get out to Chambord.
The experience cycling to Blois was unforgettable, and not in a good way. In fact, it was so unforgettable, it will be its own blog entry, and reading about my experience may save you some heartache and disappointment.
Chateau Gaillard
A Funny Thing Happened on the way to the Launderette…
Really, I had every intention of seeing everything on my list. But sometimes you have to let a trip unfold the way it’s going to unfold. Take, for example, the morning I’d set aside to do laundry. Unbelievably, the closest laundromat was a 1.2 mile walk from the historic Amboise center to a newer section of town, complete with a strip mall and a launderette.
Yes, I could have taxied or better yet, taken a bus, but the weather was spectacular for walking. Not too hot, not too cold, and I’d be able to take my time along the way.
One of the best decisions I made on this trip. I am so glad I decided to walk.On the way to my laundromat, I saw a sign for Chateau Gaillard. I resolved to stop by after my laundry was finished. I knew I’d have to change around my plans for the afternoon, but it’s important to take advantage of opportunities when they present themselves.
Chateau Gaillard is unique because of its Italian-style architecture.
Chateau Gaillard looks different from so many other chateau I’d seen in pictures. And it even looked different than the town surrounding it. That’s why this chateau is special and worth a visit. It stands out from the others…
You can read more about the chateau here.
The entire experience of setting out to do one thing (laundry) and discovering something wonderful along the way reminded me: The most amazing things can happen on a trip if you let them. Don’t worry so much about keeping to a schedule and let things happen…
Chaumont-sur-Loire
Just one train stop away from Amboise is the town of Chaumont-sur-Loire, and the chateau stands on a high hill overlooking the town and the Loire River. It is impressive to view from afar, and even more impressive up close, but it stands out from the others because of what’s inside.
My initial plan was to set out for Chaumont-sur-Loire as soon as I finished my laundry. But stumbling upon Chateau Gaillard set me back, and I ended up arriving in Chaumont-sur-Loire late in the afternoon.
Besides its imposing setting above the Loire, what sets Chaumont-sur-Loire apart from other chateaux in the area are its stunning art displays found throughout the chateau.
Chaumont-sur-Loire was the second surprise of the day. I had expected to visit a traditional chateau, but I was introduced to several contemporary artists that I hope to see again and again. Here’s a brief video of a digital art display by Quayola entitled Effets de Soir.
Azay-le-Rideau
After a couple of nights in Amboise, it was time to move eastward– basing myself in the village of Azay-le-Rideau. The eponymous chateau there is fairy-tale like and sits on the banks of the River Indre. A short distance from town is the magnificant Chateau Villandry, and there is a troglodyte farm that visitors could see just outside of town. Given Azay le Rideau’s proximity to several places that were on my list, it was the perfect place to base myself for two nights at the Hotel-des-Chateaux.
Why visit Azay-le-Rideau?
Azay-le-Rideau was quiet the March afternoon I visited. I’m sure it’s packed to the brim with tourists in the summertime, but now it was practically empty. What makes Azay-le-Rideau so special is its architecture. A stroll around the chateau reveals the “floating” wonder that it is.
Villandry
This was another instance where off season travel added just a small wrinkle– I used a taxi rather than a bus service to get from the Hotel des Chateaux to Villandry. Natasha at the hotel helped me arrange this. My driver, Brandon, was terrific and we arranged a convenient pick up time for the both of us. I believe I only paid 25 Euro round trip for the transportation and conversation.
The interior of Villandry is less of an armory or an art gallery, and has a lived-in appearance to it. Be sure you allow yourself some time to walk around the rooms inside. You can actually imagine people living here.
Every Loire Valley chateau has gardens on the property. But very few have gardens quite like Villandry, which is why I chose to visit.
I was unable to get a panorama shot of the gardens, which would have been most helpful. And the best part, there were only 25 other people visiting the chateau when I was there. I had the gardens practically to myself, and even though they weren’t in full bloom, there was plenty to look at. Even in March. Even in the rain.
La Vallée Troglodytique des Goupillières
Onto my third “must see” item for Azay-le-Rideau. I hiked out to a troglodyte farm to view the cave dwellings of farmers who worked the land from the Middle Ages to the 19th Century.
Chinon
This French village is about an hour bus ride away from Azay-le-Rideau. I suppose I could have stayed where I was based and gotten to Fontvreaud from Azay, but I wanted to explore a different area. I arrived on a Sunday, which wasn’t the best day to arrive. It was pretty quiet in town, maybe a little too quiet, and I found most of the village closed.
But I was here to visit Fontvreaud Abbey, a twenty minute cab ride outside of Chinon.
Except… I couldn’t find a cab. I called one cab company with no answer. I called another that said they were based in Samur and didn’t drive to Chinon. I did a search on Uber and Bolt (the ride sharing app in France), but no cars were available ??? What gives? I also searched for a direct bus to Fontevraud and for bicycle rental shops. Nothing.
I was stuck. In Chinon. On a Sunday. With nothing to do.
But that’s never exactly true, is it? There’s always something to do! When a wrinkle occurs in your travel plans, it’s important to make the best of it. Like most things in life, everything depends upon your reaction.
After checking into my lovely little Hotel Agnes Sorel a Chinon, on the edge of the town’s main street, I set off to explore what I could of Chinon. Unlike Amboise or Blois, Chinon is all narrow lanes. You can feel the middle ages as you walk through the streets. Up on the hill is a fortress overlooking the town, La tour de l’Horloge Forteresse Royale de Chinon, to be exact. I took my time climbing up to the fortress, walked around it, and came back down. I also took a stroll along the River Vienne, upon which Chinon so peacefully sits.
And I treated myself to a wonderful dinner at one of the few open restaurants and enjoyed a vegetable purse on a bed of couscous served with an Aperol Spritz.
When travel plans don’t work out the way you’d hoped, your reaction is crucial. By all means, treat yourself well (such as enjoying a finer meal than you normally would) and enjoy the ride. #treatyourself
My Final List
After all was said and done, my trip to the Loire turned out to be this…
- Chambord
Chateau d’UsseChateau Gaillard- Azay-le-Rideau
Chevernydidn’t have time to visit- Villandry
- Chaumont sur Loire
Fontvreaud Abbeywasn’t able to reach destination- Visit to troglodyte farm
- Bicycle rental and experience of French cycling routes
My visit to off-season Loire Valley was complete and it was time for me to head to the south of France.